Balenciaga's Designer Advocates Women's Liberation with Relaxed Balenciaga Collection.

While fresh talent at Chanel and Dior sparked plenty of noise during the ongoing Paris fashion week, it was the first show from Balenciaga that utterly dominated the media spotlight. The presentation featured a surprise appearance: the Duchess of Sussex, Meghan, making her return to the European scene in three years.

That Saturday night in the city of lights, the razzle-dazzle of Dior, Chanel – and even the notable attendee – could not compete with the sheer impact of the Balenciaga show.

Meghan, Duchess of Sussex added an extra layer of star power to Balenciaga’s Paris show.

Until that moment, the prevailing sentiment surrounding Pierpaolo Piccioli’s debut had been relatively serene. The fashion house is a highly respected name, and the creative force is widely recognized as a top-tier talent. Furthermore, he is beloved for his reputation as the most congenial figure in the industry. The general expectation was that dramatic fashion statements had departed the house of Balenciaga with the exit of the edgy designer Demna to a competing brand. However, occasionally the kindest people pull off unexpected moves, and the presence of a duchess dramatically heightened the level of hoopla.

He sees himself as an master builder, creating forms that never touch the human form.

Notably, the core concept of the collection's guiding philosophy, as he described it behind the scenes, was women's liberation. His starting point was the iconic sack dress from 1957, a silhouette that maintains distance from the body, neither amplifying nor constricting a natural body shape. He stated that this look was a radical expression of a evolving cultural mood that was starting to transition from the conservative norms of the 1950s towards the more free-spirited era. The idea centered on female empowerment. It freed women from the burden of garments that sit on their body and focus on their anatomy. The sack dress allowed women to be free in space.”

Some of the house's famous designs were featured in the presentation, such as this structured outerwear.

Garments that maintain their own shape are at the heart of the the brand's ethos. The designer likened this approach to design to being an architect: building forms that do not touch the body, while constantly considering the human beings who will occupy these creations. The founder was obsessed with the human form and with textiles, and with a additional component – the gap separating them.”

First onto the catwalk was a fresh take of the sack dress, lengthened to an longline silhouette, paired with elegant gloves – but also with distinctive eyewear that functioned as a obvious reference to the apocalypse-chic of the brand's recent past.

Piccioli, who at his current age wears ornamental accessories and exudes an peaceful, free-spirited demeanor, is not interested in seeing design as a personal rivalry. He believes that it is better for designers to appreciate each other’s abilities. He mentioned that he was seeking a successful fusion between the couture roots of the fashion label, and its more modern casual influences. Balenciaga’s most iconic silhouettes were included in the presentation: a voluminous outerwear piece, this time in a striking shade, and a trapeze dress in a dramatic violent purple.

The phenomenon of Parisian style has become a lucrative industry. Michael Rider is an designer from the US, but he understands this aesthetic perfectly. The designer collaborated closely with a fashion icon during her time leading the brand, and then spent six years elevating the classic label into a symbol of approachable fashion. In his current role, he is introducing the democratic approach of his previous work to Parisian style. The collection featured trench coats, straw baskets, and luxury fabrics used as accents – the signature details of Parisian elegance – designed with bright hues, with an optimistic US influence. This is not an exclusive label, or a brand that wants to exclude people,” he commented after the show. The goal is for everyone feels desirable in Celine. By choosing these pieces, you may not have the most outrageous item, but you have the perfect garment, and you have the attitude to wear it.”

Jamie Butler
Jamie Butler

A seasoned construction engineer with over 15 years of experience in infrastructure projects and sustainable building practices.